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Dictionary


M  N  O  P  R  S  T  U  V  W  Z     (A-Z)

M
 

Manky:
Bad, heinous, atrocious, dreadful, ghastly. Usually applies to a piece of protection, but can refer to anything that is generally worthless, disgusting and/or offensive.

Mantel:
A technique wherein a climber grasps a hold waist-level and powers the body upward with minimal assistance from the feet. (From "mantelpiece.")

Match:
To grasp a hold with both hands, or to place the feet side by side on the rock.

Mixed Climbing:
Ascending a route by a combination of methods, e.g. mixed free and aid climbing; also, ascending a route wherein both rock and ice, and sometimes snow, are encountered.

Moraine:
An accumulation of stones and various debris pushed into a large pile by a glacier.

Multi-Pitch Climb:
A climb that is longer than a single rope length, necessitating the setting of anchors at progressively higher belay stations as the climbers ascend.

Munter Hitch:
A belay knot through which the rope slides when pulled in one direction and brakes when pulled in the other.

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N
 


Nailing a route:
A descriptive term that refers to aid climbing with pitons, which are hammered into a wall's cracks to provide protection.

Névê:
Permanent granular snow formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles which is found above the head of a glacier.

Nubbin:
A small rock protrusion, often a crystal, that can be utilized as a hold.

Nut:
A metal wedge with a wire loop that is inserted in cracks for protection.

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O
 


"Off Belay!":
Vocal signal from a climber who has reached a safe stance and no longer requires protection from his or her partner.

Off-width:
A crack, dreaded by most rational climbers, that is too wide for a hand or fist jam and too narrow to "chimney." Generally awkward and strenuous to climb, and difficult to protect.

"On Belay?":
Ritual query from a climber to verify that his or her belayer is ready to belay the climber.

On-sight (or "On-sight Flash"):
Leading a climb with no falls and no "dogging" (hanging on the rope) on the first attempt without any prior knowledge (beta) of its features or difficulties.

Open Book:
A dihedral, or right-angled inside corner.

Overhang:
Rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical.

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P
 


Pecker:
A thin piton resembling a bird's beak.

Pendulum:
To swing on a rope across a rock face to gain a distant anchor point.

Pitch:
A section of rock between two belay points, no more than the length of one climbing rope.

Piton:
Metal spike or peg of various shapes and configurations that can be hammered into the rock for protection, primarily in aid climbing.

Pocket:
A hole formed by a depression in the rock. Usually measured by the number of fingers that can be crammed in it.

Portaledge:
A lightweight device consisting of stretched nylon over a metal frame which can be hung from a vertical rock face to provide a place to rest/sleep on big wall climbs.

Protection (or Pro):
Any anchor (such as a nut, chock, camming device, piton or stopper) used during a climb to prevent a fall.

Prusik:
A sliding friction knot used to ascend a rope; to ascend a rope by means of such a knot.

Pumped:
A condition of severely depleted strength and lactic acid burn caused by overworking the forearm muscles while climbing.

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R
 


Rack:
The collection of protective devices that a climber carries on a route, attached to harness loops or on a sling slung across the shoulders.

Ramp:
An ascending ledge.

Rappel (or "Rap"):
To descend a fixed rope by means of mechanical braking devices.

Redpoint:
To lead a route from bottom to top while placing one's own protection, without falling or hanging on the rope.

Rime:
A thin crust of icy snow which accumulates on the surface of rocks.

Rivet:
A short metal stud which is tapped into a drilled hole and connected to a short sling or hanger. Rivets are used as protection on aid routes and hold the body weight of a climber, even in very shallow holes.

Roof:
An overhanging rock ceiling.

Rotten Rock:
Unreliable rock which has a tendency to break off under a climber's weight.

RP:
The original brass nut or taper, a small and effective form of protection for clean aid.

Runout:
An uncomfortably long and often dangerous distance between two points of protection.

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S
 


Saddle:
A high pass between two peaks.

Sandbag:
To deliberately underestimate the difficulties of a climb in order to get a climber in over his or her head, often with hilarious or tragic results.

Scrambling:
Easy, unroped climbing.

Screamer:
A long fall.

Scree:
Small loose rocks that gather on the slope at the base of a cliff.

Scumming (or Scuzzing):
To gain purchase on the rock with body parts other than the hands or feet, however tenuous or aesthetically displeasing.

Second:
The climber who follows a lead up a pitch, belaying from below while the lead advances, then ascending to the end of the pitch.

Serac:
A pinnacle or tower of ice, usually unsafe and unreliable in nature, and prone to toppling in warm weather.

Sewing Machine Leg:
An embarrassing climbing condition caused by panic and/or fatigue which is manifested by an involuntary vibration of one or both legs. Also known as "Elvis Presley Syndrome."

Sharp End:
The top, or leader's end, of the rope.

Siege:
To mount an extended assault on a mountain by moving laboriously upward through a series of progressively higher camps. Siege tactics include the use of oxygen, previously cached equipment dumps, and high-altitude porters to do the heavy lifting.

Sherpas:
An ethnic group of Tibetan origin living below Mt. Everest in the Solo Khumbu area. From the Sherpa's effective monopoly as high-altitude porters, the name has come to be applied generically to all who work in that profession.

Sirdar:
The head Sherpa on an expedition.

Slab Climbing:
Climbing a smooth sheet of rock that lacks large handholds by holding the body out from the rock and using friction and balance to move around and up the slab.

SLCDs:
Spring-loaded camming devices, such as Friends or Camalots.

Sling:
A length of nylon webbing which is either sewn or tied into a loop and is used in conjunction with the rope and anchors to provide protection. Also called a runner.

Smearing:
A technique of applying to a rock slab as much of the sticky sole of the climbing shoe as possible to achieve maximum friction.

Spindrift:
Loose, powdery snow.

Sport Climbing:
Ascending routes of extreme gymnastic difficulty protected by closely spaced bolts.

Spur:
A rock or snow rib on the side of a mountain.

Static Rope / Line:
Special climbing rope used ( usually 8 or 9 mm in diameter ) as fixed rope / line for jumaring or rapelling that does not stretch.

Stem:
To bridge the distance between two holds with one's feet; to push against adjacent or opposing walls with the feet.

Stopper:
A trapezoidal metal wedge of varying size attached to a loop of flexible wire which is fitted into cracks and depressions in the rock to provide protection for an ascending climber.

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T
 


Talus:
An accumulation of rocks and boulders that have fallen from a crag or face to form a steeply sloping fan at the base.

Top Rope:
A climbing rope that is anchored from above.

Topo:
A sketch of a route showing its line, bolt placements, belay stances, crux and rating.

Toucan:
A thin piton resembling a bird's beak.

Traverse:
Moving sideways across a section of terrain instead of directly up or down.

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U
 


Undercling:
A usually awkward and tenuous hold that requires applying upward pressure on a downward facing hold.

"Up Rope":
Command shouted by a climber when he or she desires a tighter, more secure belay.

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V
 


Verglas:
A thin coating of ice on rock which makes for extremely dicey climbing conditions.

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W
 


Webbing:
Flat nylon tape or tubing used for slings.

Weighting:
To delicately rest one's weight on a piece of protection to test its security.

Windslab:
A type of avalanche which occurs when a snow layer compacted by wind settles insecurely atop old snow; when it detaches it falls in large slabs or blocks of snow.

Wired:
To have a route totally figured out.

Woodie:
A homemade climbing wall.

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Z
 


Zipper Fall:
A fall of such length and velocity that the climber's protective devices are ripped from the rock in rapid succession.

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